Peak 11,240's East Ridge is class 3.

East Ridge from Silver Peak

Topo of the route

Photos by Tad Schafer

Peak 11,240 and Silver Peak sit at the head of Silver Lake Basin along the Boulder crest that runs from Galena Peak to Boulder Peak. Access to the peaks is via Silver Lake Basin to the south. To the north is the seldom visited drainage of the South Fork of the East Fork of the Salmon River and views of Castle Peak.

To climb Peak 11,240 from Silver Peak, see the Silver Peak route description for access information and scrambling details.

The connecting ridge from Silver to Peak 11,240 is 1 mile and 3 hours of work. Stay on the south side of the ridge and drop off the ridge when encountering towers. Follow a ledge system and goat paths across the ridge and above the lake basin.

As Peak 11,240 nears, scramble to the top of the class 3/4 east ridge. Use caution as this route can lead to class 4 exposure. Once on top of the ridge near the summit block, move out onto the north face for the final 100 feet.

Once on top, peer down the remote drainage of the South Fork of the East Fork of the Salmon River to its confluence with the East Fork and Castle Peak towering above.

Descending to the lakes is very tricking and time consuming. You can choose to retrace your route off the east ridge until you hit the talus and scree and then make a beeline for the pond and the upper reaches of the basin. Or you can choose to take the steep gully that cuts the east face of Peak 11,240 and heads straight for the pond. The gully is extremely slick due to the loose rock and dirt. Utilize the sides of the gully for handholds. Once into the scree the slope lessens and its a straight shot for the pond.